He was attractive and cheeky, and long before he was captured on film and became an international icon, he garnered a reputation for catching the waves of San Diego County.
Michael Heinsohn, the co-star of the iconic surfing film “Endless Summer” and an adopted son of Encinitas, channeled his enthusiasm for waves into a lifetime of sand and sports on shores around the globe.
The fun-loving surfer whose sunset outline on a famous movie poster epitomized a generation and whose style choices impacted nearly everyone in his orbit passed away on Friday following a recent illness. He was 82 years of age.
“He’s 40 years my senior, but he’s like the younger brother I never had,” shared Haley Ogden, Heinsohn’s stepdaughter. “He was a joker and a playful spirit. He occasionally caused a little mischief, but he always brought us joy.”
Born in 1942 in Crescent City, one of the farthest northern points of the California coastline, Heinsohn was the offspring of a U.S. Army soldier and spent a significant portion of his childhood traveling between Hawaii and San Diego County.
Shortly after completing his studies at Mission Bay High School, he was facing the prospect of being conscripted into military service to participate in the Vietnam War when film director Bruce Brown scouted him for “Endless Summer.”
Heinsohn had collaborated with Brown on several short films. When Brown envisioned his feature-length documentary, he required two skilled surfers to travel the globe searching for the ideal wave.
He enlisted Heinsohn and Robert August for a month-long expedition to beaches in Australia, Tahiti, Ghana, and other secluded spots. Director Brown, who had his young stars purchase their own plane tickets, documented their experiences chasing waves above and below the equator, earning the film’s title.
“Endless Summer” debuted in 1966 and became an instant classic, demonstrating Hinson’s talent, charm, and attractiveness. This project introduced countless new fans to the sport in the United States and in the locations featured in the film.
Heinsohn recounted to surfing journalist Scott Hewlett how he stumbled upon the perfect wave one early morning in the small South African village of Cape St. Francis in 1991.
“I was gazing far up the point, and I could see these surreal waves rolling in,” he stated in an interview. “I watched until I could no longer contain myself and then I started yelling, waking everyone up. They were weary, and I didn’t wish to intrude, but I was aware this was a once-in-a-lifetime moment.”
Hyson was trendsetting in both attire and personal flair. Others frequently emulated the clothing he donned and the way his thick gray hair was always styled, even in waves.
“All the youngsters in the community began to style their hair straight,” recalled Kevin Kinnear, a friend who was with Hinson when he passed away on Friday. “It was an overnight sensation. He was incredibly fashionable and established an amazing trend.”
Heinsohn was also a renowned surfboard shaper, with his designs impacting generations of surfboards.
His renowned Red Fin longboard gained acclaim for offering edge control to adept surfers, leading to the formation of an organization in the 1960s known as the “Red Fin Army,” which included many of the globe’s most famous surfers.
Skip Frye, a surfing legend from San Diego who became friends with Heinsohn in the late 1950s and early 1960s, described him as a pioneer who was always experimenting and striving for improvement.
“He implemented a low rail so surfers could tackle hollow waves like pipelines,” Frye noted. “The edge was slightly lower than the center, allowing it to grip the face of the wave better, particularly on steep waves.”
Frye mentioned that his friend was also an adept scratch golfer, and Mr. Heinsohn excelled in eight-ball and other billiard games. He was instrumental in founding the Windansea Surf Club alongside Chuck Hasley, Frye, and others in the early 1960s.
“He genuinely had faith in himself. He was a ‘get-it-done’ sort of individual,” Frye remarked. “So it could ruffle feathers at times. He recognized how skilled he was and how exceptional he truly was.”
Melinda Merryweather met Hinson during their teenage years, quickly forming a friendship. She recounted that they skateboarded across Pacific Beach and often traveled to Laguna Beach to skate on the hills there.
“He went off to produce ‘Endless Summer,’ and I moved to New York to model for Ford,” she shared. “We reconnected later. We’ve been best friends for many years.”
The couple wed in 1970, with surf legend Phil Edwards serving as their chaperone and a wedding cake adorned with hashish. They collaborated with Jimi Hendrix on the 1971 film Rainbow Bridge, which examined the counterculture of the 1960s.
However, their marriage was short-lived. Even though the couple divorced nearly 40 years ago, they remained friends and kept in touch.
Heinsohn’s creativity, charm, and fame never translated into significant personal wealth.
He operated one of the first juice bars to open in San Diego County in the early 1970s. He earned income by selling his designs and autographing surfboards at major surf conventions and events, however, friends indicated he also sold and smuggled drugs.
Nonetheless, friends and family assert that Hinson began to turn his life around after meeting Carol Hannigan two decades ago. They have been together ever since.
“Mike was practically a rock star,” remarked Hannigan’s son, Toby Ogden. “He never sought to impress anyone. He seemed to effortlessly draw people in with his authentic self. He was a rebel and a troublemaker, but ultimately he was a warm-hearted individual.”
“He was the individual everyone aspired to be,” he added.
By 2009, Heinsohn was co-authoring a book titled “Mike Heinsohn: Transcendent Memories of a Surf Rebel.”
The book, currently available on Amazon, chronicles Heinsohn’s achievements as a young man. Co-written with Hannigan’s sister, Donna Claassen Yost, the book features an image of the Endless Summer poster on its cover.
Heinsohn is survived by Carol Hannigan of Encinitas; stepchildren Haley Ogden of Encinitas, Toby Ogden and Chris Ogden of Vista, and Damian Ogden of San Juan Capistrano; his son, Michael Heinsohn Jr. of Laguna Beach; and several grandchildren.
No services are planned for Hynson at this moment. The family intends to organize a paddle-out ceremony at Windansea Beach in June, commemorating the day Hinson would have turned 83. They desire ample time to plan a suitable tribute for the man.
The family has also established a GoFundMe account to assist with expenses.
First published: January 11, 2025 at 7:03 PM PST